Chasing the Horizon – Adventure of a Lifetime Day 0

Sea Kayaking in Sea of Cortez: Desert South of Mexicali on the way to San Felipe, Kayak atop the car
Desert South of Mexicali on the way to San Felipe

Chasing the horizon by sea kayaking in Sea of Cortez. First I had to get to San Felipe and it took a lot longer than I expected, about 6 1/2 hours from Orange County, not driving too fast.  After crossing the border in Mexicali, I was delayed in getting my tourist card because there was no nearby parking and I had to park and hike back to the border from several blocks away.  The tourist card cost $22. Car insurance for one day was $11.00.

As I drove south from Mexicali on Mexico Highway 5, 125 miles down the long straight road leading to San Felipe, I began to think that I should probably call this the “guilt trip” because that’s the way I felt while thinking of the trip ahead. Taking a month off by myself seemed very selfish.

Making Arrangements in San Felipe

On arrival in San Felipe I pulled into an RV Park on the beach in the center of town. I had found the RV Park on an Internet web site is called “The Net”. That web site has a lot of information about the town of San Felipe and Baja in general. By email with Mrs. Pena, who owns the RV Park, we had arrived at a price of $2.00 per day for me to leave my car here for one month.  $60.00 wasn’t too bad for the month, and the RV Park did seem like a secure place. The fee for me to camp the first night was $15 and I camped in the third row of campers back from the beach. I met two Canadians at the RV Park. They come down from British Columbia in their RV every year and stay for a month.  They said they liked this particular RV Park, and they thought my car should be very secure if left with Mrs. Pena. 

My first Look at the Sea of Cortez

With arrangements in place thanks to Mrs. Pena, I drove down the coast south of San Felipe to get a good look at the wide sandy beaches. Some beaches had large waves, and I hoped that I could find a few spots to more easily land and launch my kayak in the days ahead.  As I stood overlooking the Sea of Cortez, the wind blew with such intensity that it caused the waters to churn, creating white caps and small waves that crashed onto the shoreline. My heart raced as I surveyed the scene, realizing that I had never attempted a beach landing amidst such turbulent waves. The power of the sea was both intimidating and exhilarating, and I couldn’t help but wonder how I would fare in the coming days. As the day wore on, the waves gradually began to settle down, their energy dissipating into a gentle rhythm. The sun began to set, casting the sky in warm shades of orange and pink, while the temperature cooled to a comfortable 70 degrees Fahrenheit. It was a peaceful end to an eventful day, and as I gazed out over the tranquil waters, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience such a beautiful place.

Checking out San Felipe

I drove around the town a bit and I found that San Felipe was much nicer than I had expected. The main part of town is kind of laid-back, but heavy on stores with T-shirts and bars with “two for the price of one” Margaritas. It’s apparently a madhouse during spring break but I saw very few people around town.  I got almost all of my information about the town and its surroundings from The Net and the various links that are on that web site. I had a nice carne asada dinner at a place along the beach recommended by the two Canadians.

San Felipe, Baja Norte, Mexico on the desert coast of the Sea of Cortez

Here is how a AAA guidebook describes San Felipe:

“This major winter resort and fishing center occupies a site where the shimmering waters of the Gulf of California lap against the shores of a forbidding desert.  Clearly visible across the sandy coastal plain to the west is the steep eastern wall of the Sierra San Pedro Martir – highest range on the peninsula.  The town itself is nestled beneath 940 ft. high Punta San Felipe, a rugged headland that provides a partial shelter for boats and forms the northern end of shallow Bahia San Felipe. From this point, the shore of the bay makes a crescent shaped dent in the coastline, then swings southeastward into line of wide, attractive beaches to Punta Estrella, 12 miles distant. [With the training I had done in the previous months offshore of Dana Point California, I thought I might make it to Punta Estrella on my first day, weather permitting.] An interesting natural phenomenon here is the extreme tidal range, which can reach more than 20 ft. This makes boating a tricky proposition for those without experience in these waters.  San Felipe is a friendly community of about 15,000, with modest dwellings, sandy side streets and little vegetation.”

Checking and Rechecking

Back at the RV park I took the kayak down from the car and spread out my paddling gear, camping equipment, and food supplies, trying to see if there was anything I forgot. Although I had a long day of travel from Orange County and was very tired from checking and rechecking my provisions and equipment, I found the excitement of the moment made it difficult to fall asleep. 

Next: Day 1- San Felipe- Pushing off and Looking Back

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  1. March 4, 2023

    […] Chapter I. San Felipe to Puertecitos – Chasing the Horizon […]